Why Shoulder Season is the Best Season in the Kootenay Lake Region

Summer may captivate our imaginations with its long days and sparkling water, and winter might dominate our dreams with images of deep powder and steamy drinks, but in between there are months of secret delight we too often overlook. We call this shoulder season—the spring and fall. These are the times in between times, when crowds brush away and the Nelson Kootenay Lake region becomes the exclusive playground of those in the know. Shoulder season, believe it or not, may actually be the best time to visit.

Fall

As the dog days lead into cooler evenings, brisk mornings and autumn colours, there’s plenty of warmth left in the middle of the day to carry on with the best activities of summer. More temperate days mean many activities are in fact better, from mountain biking, to rock climbing, trail running, and even golf.

“The fall is hands down my favourite time of year,” says Sam Baio, owner Valhalla Pure Outfitters in Nelson—a store that deals almost entirely in outdoor adventure. “For hiking and biking, the trails are the best they get at that time of year.”

Sam says there’s the perfect amount of moisture in the ground with the dew-y mornings, and less people out. Camping is easier as well, as you don’t have to plan ahead to book a site, whether you’re pulling up in your car or hiking deep into the mountains.

“There are always spots at that time of year, and that's when you really get to hang out and get cozy around a fire,” he says.

Watersports are usually still totally viable into early October as well, including kayaking, paddle boarding, and even swimming. An entire summer’s worth of heat has been swallowed up by the lake, and it holds late into the fall. It’s also the time of year the kokanee salmon return to the provincial park named for them, and lace the rivers with the vibrant red colours that start to compliment the trees.

“I love to recommend people get outside and enjoy the larch colors,” says Sam. “You know, the yellows up in the mountains—it’s just such a special time for that.”

Up in Kaslo, Courtney Souchotte agrees. She’s the operations manager of the Kalso Hotel, and says nearby Monica Meadows holds a similar spectacle for those that make the trek. Souchotte herself is a trail runner, but says the hiking and biking are equally top shelf at that time of the year, including Kaslo’s most recent amenity, the Friendly Giant, an 18-kilometre, out-and-back, beginner-friendly mountain bike trail built to world-class standards.

“That goes from the base of Mount Buchanan all the way to the peak,” Courtney explains. “So that's 36 kilometres return of single track: machine-built, groomed, beautiful dirt.”

Hiking along nearby Highway 31a can likewise sometimes last into mid- to late October before snow starts to fall. Courtney also notes it’s the best time of year for fishing, and the cooler days are perfect for visiting Ainsworth to soak in the hot springs.

The town of Kaslo itself is also endlessly cute, with its Victorian architecture and views of the bay overlooking Kootenay Lake. A day of lounging in the village is well serviced by the historic hotel and a host of other restaurants as well.

And the bonus? Accommodation is way cheaper at this time of year, including at the Kaslo Hotel.

Spring

When it comes to spring, the feeling in the air is always electric. “It’s a really exciting time for everybody,” Sam says. “Living in the northern hemisphere, it’s just human for all of us to feel so comfortable as soon as that warm air comes in.”

Much like the reverse of fall, winter lingers in the hills while the valley warms up. That means some of the best skiing of the year is still going on at Whitewater Mountain Resort, with zero lift lines. And if you’re into backcountry, it’s the best peak-bagging time of the year, with a deeper, more stable snowpack up high. As the daylight extends, you can even ski and bike in the same day.

“We call that double-dipping,” says Sam, adding that the his favourite part of spring is the local vibe, which any visitor would be welcomed into.

Up in Kaslo, Courtney is quick to point out Stellar Heliskiing likewise operates until the end of March, with dry powder still on offer up high and consistently clear weather. There’s also great ski touring off Highway 31a.

While the lake won’t be warm for another couple months, the newly renovated hotel and town both have high-speed fibre internet, making workcations perfectly viable at a time of year when travel is cheap. Deals on flights are available into either Spokane or Castlegar.

And crowds? Much like the fall, there aren’t any.

Arts & Culture

Nelson and Kootenay Lake are the uncontested cultural hub of the Kootenays, offering more events and amenities than any rural region like it. The creative community keeps that fire burning year round, whether it’s music, culinary experiences, theatre, or even just farmers’ markets.

“There's definitely a lot of action that's always happening at the Capitol Theatre,” says Sydney Black, the executive director of the Nelson & District Arts Council. “They have live shows almost every single weekend. Also the Bloom Nightclub as well as Spiritbar bring in internationally recognized DJs all the time.”

Spring is also dance season, with school showcases and even a Broadway musical Sydney herself puts on every year, once again at the Capitol Theatre. Kaslo Logger Sports and May Days are not to be missed either, while up the road in Ymir, the Tiny Lights music festival happens in early June, taking over the entire little frontier town.

“You can always go for a mural tour any time of year, that's always available to you,” Sydney emphasizes, citing the dozens of installations that have been commissioned throughout town. “As well as the Oxygen Art Center Gallery and the Nelson Museum, Archives & Gallery, they have great exhibitions from all over the place.” 

With more restaurants per capita than even San Francisco, Nelson is also always one of the best places to eat. While you can find plenty of world cuisine, fall also plays host to Burger Month and spring has the 14 Days of Poutine event, and the Nelson Farmers Market runs through fall, with the Harvest Market Festival in late September on historic Baker Street.

“Restaurants are less busy, it’s easier to get reservations as well as parking,” Sydney emphasizes. “It's a nice time to just be able to come and take a breath and really dig in and enjoy all that Nelson has to offer.”